Cosmetic composition for coating keratin fibres

ABSTRACT

The present invention relates to a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, in particular for coating keratin fibers such as the eyelashes, comprising:—an aqueous phase,—a lamellar phase Lβ formed by an aqueous phase-structuring surfactant system, said surfactant system comprising a content of surfactant(s) of greater than or equal to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,—at least one (poly)vinylpyrrolidone hydrophilic polymer present in a content of greater than or equal to 3% by weight of solids relative to the total weight of the composition, the hydrophilic polymer(s) having a weight-average molecular mass Mw ranging from 1500 to 500 000 g/mol. The present invention also relates to a process for coating keratin fibers.

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for coatingkeratin fibres, and in particular the eyelashes or the eyebrows. Inparticular, said cosmetic composition is a composition for making up andoptionally caring for the eyelashes. The present invention also relatesto a process for coating keratin fibres, in particular a process formaking up and optionally caring for the eyelashes. The present inventionalso relates to particular uses.

The composition used may in particular be in the form of an eyelashproduct such as a mascara, or an eyebrow product. More preferentially,the invention relates to a mascara. The term “mascara” is intended tomean a composition intended to be applied to the eyelashes: it may be aneyelash makeup composition, an eyelash makeup base (also known as a basecoat), a composition to be applied over a mascara, also known as a topcoat, or else a cosmetic composition for treating the eyelashes. Themascara is more particularly intended for human eyelashes, but alsofalse eyelashes.

Mascaras are in particular prepared according to two types offormulation: water-based mascaras known as cream mascaras, in the formof a dispersion of waxes in water; anhydrous mascaras or mascaras with alow water content, known as waterproof mascaras, in the form ofdispersions of waxes in organic solvents.

Generally, anhydrous mascaras have good water resistance, but the levelof volume is generally low and the makeup removal is difficult, whereaswater-based mascaras have lower water resistance but a high level ofvolume and easier makeup removal.

The present patent application more specifically relates to what isknown as water-based mascaras.

Keratin fibre coating compositions of such a mascara type generallyconsist of at least one fatty phase generally formed from one or morewaxes dispersed in an aqueous liquid phase by means of an emulsifyingsystem or conveyed in an organic solvent.

The presence of wax(es) is known to provide a good texture capable ofcharging the eyelashes to give them a volume effect, but has thedrawback of reducing the colour intensity of the composition. Moreover,reducing the amount of waxes produces solutions whose colour intensityis high, but the composition thus fluidized gives rise to a makeup thatcharges sparingly.

One aim of the present invention is to obtain a composition for coatingkeratin fibres, preferably a mascara, which gives a charging effect onthe eyelashes while at the same time having good colour intensity, inparticular good black intensity, and having good properties in terms ofshaping of the curl of the eyelashes while at the same time having apleasant application. Hard waxes are known to provide a curling effect,but, at high concentration, they are relatively unpleasant to applysince the texture is rigid.

An aim of the present patent application is also to propose a stablemascara, which has a texture that is thick enough to obtain a chargingdeposit, of satisfactory consistency, allowing easy application to theeyelashes and uniform deposition, i.e. smooth and homogeneous, evenafter two months stored at 4° C.

An aim of the present patent application is also to propose a stablemascara, which has a texture that is thick enough to obtain a chargingdeposit, of satisfactory consistency, allowing easy application to theeyelashes and uniform deposition, i.e. smooth and homogeneous, evenafter two months stored at 45° C.

An aim of the present patent application is more particularly to proposea stable mascara, which has a texture that is thick enough to obtain acharging deposit, of satisfactory consistency, allowing easy applicationto the eyelashes and uniform deposition, i.e. smooth and homogeneous,even after two months stored at temperatures oscillating between 4° C.and 45° C.

More particularly, an aim of the present invention consists instabilizing a mascara without phase separation over time.

An aim of the present patent application is more particularly to proposea mascara in which the pigments are uniformly dispersed.

An aim of the present patent application is more particularly to proposea mascara that is pleasant to apply.

An aim of the present invention is more particularly to propose acomposition for coating keratin fibres that allows good separation ofthe eyelashes during its application, without formation of bunches ofeyelashes, and while ensuring smooth and uniform deposition of material(without lumps of composition).

An aim of the present invention is also to obtain a composition forcoating keratin fibres, preferably a mascara, which has good stayingpower on the eyelashes.

Consequently, one subject of the present invention is a composition,preferably a cosmetic composition, in particular for coating keratinfibres such as the eyelashes, comprising:

an aqueous phase,

a lamellar phase Lβ formed by an aqueous phase-structuring surfactantsystem, said surfactant system comprising a content of surfactant(s) ofgreater than or equal to 15% by weight relative to the total weight ofthe composition,

at least one (poly)vinylpyrrolidone hydrophilic polymer present in acontent of greater than or equal to 1% by weight of solids relative tothe total weight of the composition, the hydrophilic polymer(s) having aweight-average molecular mass Mw ranging from 1500 to 500,000 g/mol.

Surprisingly and unexpectedly, the inventors of the present patentapplication have succeeded in formulating compositions, which areespecially suitable for coating keratin fibres such as the eyelashes, inparticular a mascara composition, which is capable of considerablylimiting or even capable of dispensing with the use of waxes.

In particular, a composition in accordance with the invention gives riseto a composition that is stable even after 2 months whether at 45° C. orat 4° C. It appears that such a composition is smooth, glossy and has anintense black colour. Such a composition is also pleasant to apply,comfortable and has a very good playtime. Furthermore, this compositionpromotes shaping of the curl of the eyelashes, the inventors puttingforward the hypothesis that the hydrophilic polymer(s) selected give thecomposition a desiccating and rigidifying effect.

Furthermore, when combined with a high wax content, for example greaterthan or equal to 10% by weight, and more surprisingly with a highcontent of hard wax(es), for example greater than or equal to 10% byweight, the present invention makes it possible to conserve comfort onapplication and in particular unexpected playtime, allowing more than 20brushstrokes on the eyelashes without the user sensing any dragging.

According to a second aspect, a subject of the present invention is alsoan assembly or kit for coating keratin fibres, comprising:

-   at least one cosmetic composition for coating keratin fibres as    described previously, and-   at least one applicator for the composition, said applicator    comprising means, where appropriate with reliefs, configured to come    into contact with said keratin fibres, such as the eyelashes or the    eyebrows, so as to smooth and/or separate the eyelashes or the    eyebrows. Such reliefs may comprise teeth, bristles or the like.    Said assembly, and in particular said applicator, may optionally be    equipped with means for vibrating and/or heating said composition.

According to a third aspect, a subject of the present invention is alsoan assembly or kit for packaging and applying a composition for coatingkeratin fibres, comprising:

-   -   a device for packaging said cosmetic composition for coating        keratin fibres as described previously,    -   an applicator for said composition.        Said applicator may be integrally attached to a gripping member        forming a cap for said packaging device. In other words, said        applicator may be mounted in a removable position on said device        between a closed position and an open position of a dispensing        aperture of the device for conditioning said composition.

According to particular preferred embodiments of the present inventionconcerning the compositions and processes described above and directedtowards solving at least one of the abovementioned problems:

-   -   the surfactant system comprises at least one nonionic        surfactant; preferably, the surfactant system comprises a total        content of nonionic surfactant(s) of greater than or equal to        15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition;    -   the surfactant system comprises a total content of        surfactant(s), preferably of nonionic surfactant(s), of greater        than or equal to 18% by weight, in particular 20% by weight, for        example ranging from 15% to 45% by weight, better still from 18%        to 40% by weight and even better still from 20% to 35% by weight        relative to the total weight of the composition;    -   the surfactant system comprises:        -   at least one nonionic surfactant with an HLB value at 25° C.            of less than 8, and        -   at least one nonionic surfactant with an HLB value at 25° C.            of greater than or equal to 8;    -   the nonionic surfactant(s) with an HLB value at 25° C. of        greater than or equal to 8, and less than or equal to 8,        correspond to formula (I) below:        (ALK-[C(O)]_(a)—[O]_(b))_(c)—X  (I)        in which formula (I):    -   ALK is a C₇-C₂₃, preferably C₁₁-C₂₁ and more preferentially        C₁₅-C₁₇ alkyl group,    -   a and b are integers between 0 and 100, c is an integer between        1 and 100, in particular between 1 and 3, preferably equal to 1,        a and b preferably being equal to 0 or 1,    -   X is a (poly)oxyalkylene group optionally substituted and/or        terminated with a hydroxyl group, X preferably being an        oxyethylene group (CH₂CH₂O)_(n) or (OCH₂CH₂)_(n) in which n is        greater than or equal to 1, for example between 1 and 200, said        (poly)oxyalkylene group preferably being a polyethylene glycol        or being the result of at least one substitution of a hydroxyl        group, preferably chosen from (poly)glycerols;    -   The group X is preferably chosen from:        HO-(ALK-O)_(z)—CH2-CH[(OALK)_(y)—OH]—CH2-(O-ALK)_(x)-(*)  i)        in which:

-   ALK, which may be identical or different, representing a C1-C6 and    in particular C1-C4 alkylene group, preferably ethylene,

-   x, y and z being an integer between 0 and 200, it being understood    that x+y+z is other than 0, x+y+z preferably being inclusively    between 1 and 150 and in particular between 20 and 60;    H-(ALK-O)_(x)—(*) and H—(O-ALK)_(x)-(*), preferably is    H—(O-ALK)_(x)-(*)  ii)    in which:

-   ALK, which may be identical or different, representing a C1-C6 and    in particular C1-C4 ethylene group, preferably ethylene,

-   x is an integer other than 0 and preferably between 1 and 200.    -   at least one from among the nonionic surfactant(s) with an HLB        value at 25° C. of less than 8 and the nonionic surfactant(s)        with an HLB value at 25° C. of greater than or equal to 8,        preferably the nonionic surfactant(s) with an HLB value at        25° C. of less than 8 and the nonionic surfactant(s) with an HLB        value at 25° C. of greater than or equal to 8, are chosen from:    -   those corresponding to formula (I′) below:        ALK-(O—CH₂—CH₂)_(n)—OH  (I′)        in which formula (I′):    -   ALK is a C₈-C₂₄, preferably C₁₂-C₂₂ and more preferentially        C₁₆-C₁₈ alkyl group,        n being an integer other than 0, between 1 and 200, preferably        between 1 and 10 and better still between 2 and 6 for the        nonionic surfactant(s) with an HLB value at 25° C. of less than        8, preferably between 20 and 200 for the nonionic surfactant(s)        with an HLB value at 25° C. of greater than or equal to 8;    -   those corresponding to formula (I″) below:        (ALK-[C(O)]_(a)—[O]_(b))_(c)-(Gly)_(d)  (I″)        in which formula (I″):    -   ALK is a C₇-C₂₃, preferably C₁₁-C₂₁ and more preferentially        C₁₅-C₁₇ alkyl group,    -   a and b are integers between 0 and 100, c is an integer between        1 and 100, in particular between 1 and 3, preferably equal to 1,        a and b preferably being equal to 0 or 1,    -   Gly is a glycerol group, optionally substituted and/or        terminated with a hydroxyl group, in particular in which at        least one of the —OH functions, and preferentially only one —OH        function, is substituted with the group        (ALK-[C(O)]_(a)—[O]_(b))_(c), preferentially ALK-(CO)—O,    -   d is an integer between 1 and 20, preferably between 1 and 12,        preferably being between 1 and 2 for the nonionic surfactant(s)        with an HLB value at 25° C. of less than 8, and between 4 and 20        for the nonionic surfactant(s) with an HLB value at 25° C. of        greater than or equal to 8;    -   and a mixture thereof;    -   the at least one from among the nonionic surfactant(s) with an        HLB value at 25° C. of less than 8 is chosen from:

(poly)oxyalkylenated monosaccharide esters and ethers;

esters of fatty acids, especially of C₈-C₂₄ and preferably of C₁₆-C₂₂,and of (poly)oxyalkylenated polyol, especially of (poly)oxyalkylenatedglycerol or of oxyalkylenated sorbitol, preferably of(poly)oxyalkylenated glycerol;

esters of fatty acids, especially of C₈-C₂₄ and preferably of C₁₆-C₂₂,and of (poly)glycerol, preferentially comprising one or two glycerolgroups;

(poly)oxyalkylenated alcohols;

and mixtures thereof, preferably from (poly)oxyalkylenated alcohols;

-   -   the at least one from among the nonionic surfactant(s) with an        HLB value at 25° C. of less than 8 comprises a        (poly)oxyalkylenated alcohol comprising an ether of a C₈-C₂₄        fatty alcohol and of polyethylene glycol, said ether comprising        from 1 to 10 and better still between 2 and 6 ethylene glycol        units;    -   the nonionic surfactant(s) with an HLB value at 25° C. of        greater than or equal to 8, preferably greater than or equal to        10, are chosen from:

(poly)oxyalkylenated glycerol ethers,

(poly)oxyalkylenated alcohols,

esters of a fatty acid and of (poly)oxyalkylenated polyethylene glycol,

esters of a fatty acid and of (poly)oxyalkylenated glycerol ethers,

esters of fatty acids, especially of C₈-C₂₄ and preferably of C₁₆-C₂₂,and of polyglycerol, preferentially comprising from 4 to 20 glycerolgroups;

esters of a fatty acid and of (poly)oxyalkylenated sorbitol ethers, andmixtures thereof; preferably from (poly)oxyalkylenated alcohols;

-   -   the at least one from among the nonionic surfactant(s) with an        HLB value at 25° C. of greater than or equal to 8 comprises a        (poly)oxyalkylenated alcohol comprising at least one ether of a        C₈-C₂₄ fatty alcohol and of polyethylene glycol, said ether        comprising at least 20 ethylene glycol units and better still        between 20 and 200 ethylene glycol units;

the nonionic surfactant(s) with an HLB value at 25° C. of less than 8,preferably corresponding to formula (I), are present in a content ofgreater than or equal to 7% by weight relative to the total weight ofthe composition, preferably between 8% and 25% by weight relative to thetotal weight of the composition;

the nonionic surfactant(s) with an HLB value at 25° C. of greater thanor equal to 8, preferably greater than or equal to 10, preferablycorresponding to formula (I), are present in a content of greater thanor equal to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of thecomposition, preferably between 8% and 25% by weight relative to thetotal weight of the composition;

the nonionic surfactant(s) with an HLB value at 25° C. of less than 8,and the nonionic surfactant(s) with an HLB value at 25° C. of greaterthan or equal to 8, preferably both corresponding to formula (I), arepresent in a total content of greater than or equal to 15%, better still18%, in particular between 15% and 45%, better still from 18% to 40% byweight and even better still from 20% to 35% by weight relative to thetotal weight of the composition;

the nonionic surfactant(s) with an HLB value at 25° C. of less than 8and the nonionic surfactant(s) with an HLB value at 25° C. of greaterthan or equal to 8, both preferably corresponding to formula (I), arepresent in a respective total content such that the weight ratio of thenonionic surfactant(s) with an HLB value at 25° C. of less than 8 to thenonionic surfactant(s) with an HLB value at 25° C. of greater than orequal to 8 ranges from 1/5 to 5, preferably from 1/3 to 3, preferablyfrom 2/3 to 3/2;

said composition comprises a solids content of greater than or equal to40%, better still 42%, preferentially 45%, more preferentially 48%, oreven 50%;

the aqueous phase represents from 30% to 80% by weight and preferablyfrom 40% to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of thecomposition;

the (poly)vinylpyrrolidone hydrophilic polymer(s) are linear;

the (poly)vinylpyrrolidone hydrophilic polymer(s) are chosen fromstatistical polymers, block copolymers, and a mixture thereof;

the hydrophilic polymer(s) are chosen from;

homopolymers of (poly)vinylpyrrolidone,

(poly)vinylpyrrolidone/(poly)vinyl acetate copolymers

(poly)vinylpyrrolidone/(meth)acrylic copolymers salts thereof, estersthereof,

and a mixture thereof;

-   -   the hydrophilic polymer(s) bearing a (poly)oxyalkylene unit        comprise from 35 to 10 000 oxyethylene units, in particular from        35 to 5000 oxyethylene units and even more preferentially from        40 to 2500 oxyethylene units;

said composition comprises from 0 to 25% of fatty phase relative to thetotal weight of the composition and more preferentially from 1% to 15%by weight relative to the total weight of the composition;

the composition comprises from 0 to 25% by weight of wax(es), inparticular from 0.5% to 15% or even from 1% to 8% by weight of wax(es);

the composition comprises a content of wax(es) of less than 5% byweight, in particular 3% by weight and preferentially 1% by weightrelative to the total weight of the composition;

the composition comprises at least one wax chosen from the groupconsisting of polar waxes and apolar waxes, and a mixture thereof;

the composition comprises at least one polar wax;

the composition comprises at least one hard wax, which is preferablypolar;

the composition comprises less than 5% by weight of wax(es), preferablyhard wax(es), which are preferably polar, and at least 3% by weight of(poly)vinylpyrrolidone hydrophilic polymer(s), relative to the totalweight of the composition; more particularly, the composition comprisesless than 3% by weight of wax(es), preferably hard wax(es), which arepreferably polar, and at least 5% by weight of (poly)vinylpyrrolidonehydrophilic polymer(s), relative to the total weight of the composition,and even more particularly the composition comprises less than 1% byweight of wax(es), preferably hard wax(es), which are preferably polar,and at least 8% by weight of (poly)vinylpyrrolidone hydrophilicpolymer(s), relative to the total weight of the composition;

the composition comprises at least 10% by weight of wax(es), preferablyhard wax(es), which are preferably polar, and at least 1% by weight of(poly)vinylpyrrolidone hydrophilic polymer(s), relative to the totalweight of the composition; in particular, the composition comprises atleast 12% by weight of hard wax(es), which are preferably polar, and atleast 1% by weight of (poly)vinylpyrrolidone hydrophilic polymer(s),relative to the total weight of the composition, and more particularlythe composition comprises at least 15% by weight of hard wax(es), whichare preferably polar, and at least 1% by weight of(poly)vinylpyrrolidone hydrophilic polymer(s), relative to the totalweight of the composition;

said composition is free of oil or organic solvent;

said composition comprises at least one film-forming polymer present inthe form of particles in dispersion, for example in aqueous dispersion;

the total content of film-forming polymer particles present in aqueousdispersion form ranges from 0 to 20% by weight and preferably from 0 to5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition;

said composition comprises at least one dyestuff chosen from one or morepulverulent substance(s), preferably metal oxides, and in particulariron oxides;

the metal oxide(s) are preferably present in a content of greater thanor equal to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of thecomposition, and advantageously inclusively between 3% and 22% by weightrelative to the total weight of the composition;

said composition has a viscosity at 25° C. ranging from 5 to 50 Pa·s, inparticular measured using a Rheomat RM100® machine;

said composition may be a makeup composition, a makeup base or “basecoat”, or a “top coat” composition to be applied onto a makeup.

Other characteristics, properties and advantages of the presentinvention will emerge more clearly on reading the description and theexamples that follow.

Throughout the description that follows, and unless otherwise mentioned:The term “(poly)oxyalkylene” or “(poly)oxyalkylenated” means that one ormore —OH functions, in particular derived from a hydroxyl function or acarboxylic function, may be substituted with an oxyalkylene group, inparticular an oxyethylene group.

The term “acyl” means a linear or branched saturated C₈-C₂₄, betterstill C₁₂-C₂₀ and more preferentially C₁₄-C₁₈ hydrocarbon-based chaincomprising a carboxylic function whose hydroxyl function (—OH) has beensubstituted.

An “alkyl” group is a linear or branched, preferably linear, C₇-C₂₃,preferably C₁₁-C₂₁ and more preferentially C₁₅-C₁₇ hydrocarbon-basedgroup or chain.

The “hydrocarbon-based chain” is optionally “(poly)unsaturated” when itcomprises one or more double bonds and/or one or more triple bonds,which may be conjugated or non-conjugated; preferably, thishydrocarbon-based chain is saturated.

Aqueous Phase

The composition according to the invention comprises an aqueous phase,which may form a continuous phase of the composition.

The aqueous phase comprises water. It may also comprise at least onewater-soluble solvent.

In the present invention, the term “water-soluble solvent” denotes acompound that is liquid at room temperature and water-miscible.

The water-soluble solvents that may be used in the compositionsaccording to the invention may also be volatile.

Among the water-soluble solvents that may be used in the compositions inaccordance with the invention, mention may be made in particular oflower monoalcohols containing from 1 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethanoland isopropanol, and glycols containing from 2 to 8 carbon atoms such asethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol and dipropyleneglycol.

The aqueous phase (water and optionally the water-miscible solvent) isgenerally present in the composition according to the present patentapplication in a content ranging from 30% to 80% by weight relative tothe total weight of the composition, and preferably ranging from 40% to70% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Thisaqueous phase content includes not only the water originating from theaqueous dispersions of film-forming polymers, and, where appropriate,aqueous dispersions of hard waxes, in accordance with the invention, butalso, where appropriate, the water deliberately added to thecomposition.

Solids Content

The composition according to the invention advantageously comprises asolids content of greater than or equal to 40%, better still 42%, inparticular 45%, or even 48%, and preferentially 50%.

For the purposes of the present invention, the “solids content” denotesthe content of non-volatile matter.

The solids content (abbreviated as SC) of a composition according to theinvention is measured using a “Halogen Moisture Analyzer HR 73”commercial halogen desiccator from Mettler Toledo. The measurement isperformed on the basis of the weight loss of a sample dried by halogenheating, and thus represents the percentage of residual matter once thewater and the volatile matter have evaporated off.

This technique is fully described in the machine documentation suppliedby Mettler Toledo.

The measuring protocol is as follows:

Approximately 2 g of the composition, referred to hereinbelow as thesample, are spread out on a metal crucible, which is placed in thehalogen desiccator mentioned above. The sample is then subjected to atemperature of 105° C. until a constant weight is obtained. The wet massof the sample, corresponding to its initial mass, and the dry mass ofthe sample, corresponding to its mass after halogen heating, aremeasured using a precision balance.

The experimental error associated with the measurement is of the orderof plus or minus 2%.

The solids content is calculated in the following manner:Solids content (expressed as weight percentage)=100×(dry mass/wet mass).

Surfactant System

A composition in accordance with the invention comprises a surfactantsystem forming a lamellar phase Lβ in the aqueous phase.

This surfactant system structuring the aqueous phase in a lamellar phaseLβ comprises a content of surfactant(s), preferably nonionicsurfactant(s), of greater than or equal to 15% by weight relative to thetotal weight of the composition.

The surfactant system advantageously comprises a total content ofsurfactant(s), preferably of nonionic surfactant(s), of greater than orequal to 15% by weight, in particular 18% by weight, more particularlyranging from 15% to 45% by weight, better still from 18% to 40% byweight and even better still from 20% to 35% by weight relative to thetotal weight of the composition.

According to one preferred embodiment, a composition according to theinvention comprises a surfactant system comprising:

-   -   at least one nonionic surfactant with an HLB value at 25° C. of        less than 8, and    -   at least one nonionic surfactant with an HLB value at 25° C. of        greater than or equal to 8,        at least one from among the nonionic surfactant(s) with an HLB        value at 25° C. of less than 8 and at least one from among the        nonionic surfactant(s) with an HLB value at 25° C. of greater        than or equal to 8 corresponding to formula (I) below:        (ALK-[C(O)]_(a)—[O]_(b))_(c)—X  (I)        in which formula (I):

ALK is a C₇-C₂₃, preferably C₁₁-C₂₁ and more preferentially C₁₅-C₁₇alkyl group,

-   -   a and b are integers between 0 and 100, c is an integer between        1 and 100, in particular between 1 and 3, preferably equal to 1,        a and b preferably being equal to 0 or 1,    -   X is a (poly)oxyalkylene group optionally substituted and/or        terminated with a hydroxyl group, X preferably being an        oxyethylene group (CH₂CH₂O)_(n) or (OCH₂CH₂)_(n) in which n is        greater than or equal to 1, for example between 1 and 200, said        (poly)oxyalkylene group preferably being a polyethylene glycol        or being the result of at least one substitution of a hydroxyl        group, preferably chosen from (poly)glycerols.        In particular:

ALK-[C(O)]_(a)—[O]_(b) generally means that the alkyl group ALK may bederived from a fatty acid or from a fatty alcohol.

[C(O)]_(a)—[O]_(b) means that the ALK group may comprise at least onefunction chosen from an ester function COO (when a+b=1), a carbonylfunction CO (when a=1 and b=0), an oxy function O (when a=0 and b=1), ormay be directly linked to the oxyalkylene group (when a+b=0).

The compounds of formula (I) preferably result from an esterification,more preferentially from a mono esterification, or from anetherification (or alkoxylation), more preferentially amono-etherification (or mono-alkoxylation).

The group X is preferably chosen from:HO-(ALK-O)_(z)—CH2-CH[(OALK)_(y)—OH]—CH2-(O-ALK)_(x)-(*)  (i)in which:ALK, which may be identical or different, representing a C1-C6 and inparticular C1-C4 alkylene group, preferably ethylene,x, y and z being an integer between 0 and 200, it being understood thatx+y+z is other than 0, x+y+z preferably being inclusively between 1 and150 and in particular between 20 and 60;H-(ALK-O)_(x)—(*) and H—(O-ALK)_(x)-(*), preferably isH—(O-ALK)_(x)-(*)  ii)in which:ALK, which may be identical or different, representing a C1-C6 and inparticular C1-C4 ethylene group, preferably ethylene,x is an integer other than 0 and preferably between 1 and 200.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the nonionicsurfactant(s) with an HLB value at 25° C. of less than 8 and thenonionic surfactant(s) with an HLB value at 25° C. of greater than orequal to 8 are chosen from:

-   -   those corresponding to formula (I′) below:        ALK-(O—CH₂—CH₂)_(n)—OH  (I′)        in which formula (I′):

ALK is a C₈-C₂₄, preferably C₁₂-C₂₂ and more preferentially C₁₆-C₁₈alkyl group,

n being an integer other than 0, between 1 and 200, preferably between 1and 10 and better still between 2 and 6 for the nonionic surfactant(s)with an HLB value at 25° C. of less than 8, preferably between 20 and200 for the nonionic surfactant(s) with an HLB value at 25° C. ofgreater than or equal to 8;

-   -   those corresponding to formula (I″) below:        (ALK-[C(O)]_(a)—[O]_(b))_(c)-(Gly)_(d)  (I″)        in which formula (I″):

ALK is a C₇-C₂₃, preferably C₁₁-C₂₁ and more preferentially C₁₅-C₁₇alkyl group,

-   -   a and b are integers between 0 and 100, c is an integer between        1 and 100, in particular between 1 and 3, preferably equal to 1,        a and b preferably being equal to 0 or 1,    -   Gly is a glycerol group, optionally substituted and/or        terminated with a hydroxyl group, in particular in which at        least one of the —OH functions, and preferentially only one —OH        function, is substituted with the group (ALK-[C(O)]_(a)—[O]c,        preferentially ALK-(CO)—O,    -   d is an integer between 1 and 20, preferably between 1 and 12,        preferably being between 1 and 2 for the nonionic surfactant(s)        with an HLB value at 25° C. of less than 8, and between 4 and 20        for the nonionic surfactant(s) with an HLB value at 25° C. of        greater than or equal to 8;    -   and a mixture thereof.        The Griffin HLB (hydrophilic/lipophilic balance) value is        defined in J. Soc. Cosm. Chem. 1954 (volume 5), pages 249-256.        Reference may be made to the Kirk-Othmer Encyclopedia of        Chemical Technology, volume 22, p. 333-432, 3rd edition, 1979,        Wiley, for the definition of the properties and functions of        surfactants, in particular p. 347-377 of this reference.

Nonionic Surfactant(s) with an HLB Value at 25° C. of Greater Than orEqual to 8

The nonionic surfactant(s) with an HLB value, in the Griffin sense, at25° C., of greater than or equal to 8 may be advantageously chosen from:

-   -   (poly)oxyalkylenated glycerol ethers, in particular        oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated glycerol ethers, which may        comprise from 20 to 200 oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene units;    -   (poly)oxyalkylenated alcohols, in particular oxyethylenated        and/or oxypropylenated alcohols, which may comprise from 20 to        200 oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene units, preferably from 20 to        100 oxyethylene units, in particular ethoxylated fatty alcohols,        especially C₈-C₂₄ and preferably C₁₂-C₁₈ fatty alcohols, such as        ethoxylated stearyl alcohol comprising 20 oxyethylene units        (CTFA name: Steareth-20) such as Brij 78 sold by the company        Uniqema, or ethoxylated cetearyl alcohol comprising 30        oxyethylene units (CTFA name: Ceteareth-30);    -   (poly)oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters, in particular esters of        a fatty acid, especially of a C₈-C₂₄ and preferably C₁₆-C₂₂        fatty acid, and of polyethylene glycol (or PEG) (which may        comprise from 20 to 200 oxyethylene units), such as PEG-50        stearate and PEG-40 monostearate sold under the name Myrj 52P®        by the company Uniqema;    -   esters of a fatty acid, especially a C₈-C₂₄ and preferably        C₁₆-C₂₂ fatty acid, and of (poly)oxyalkylenated glycerol ethers,        which are in particular oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated        (which may comprise from 20 to 200 oxyethylene and/or        oxypropylene units), for instance glyceryl monostearate        polyoxyethylenated with 200 oxyethylene units, sold under the        name Simulsol 220 TM® by the company SEPPIC; glyceryl stearate        polyoxyethylenated with 30 oxyethylene units, for instance the        product Tagat S® sold by the company Goldschmidt, glyceryl        oleate polyoxyethylenated with 30 oxyethylene units, for        instance the product Tagat O® sold by the company Goldschmidt,        glyceryl cocoate polyoxyethylenated with 30 oxyethylene units,        for instance the product Varionic LI 13® sold by the company        Sherex, glyceryl isostearate polyoxyethylenated with 30        oxyethylene units, for instance the product Tagat L® sold by the        company Goldschmidt, and glyceryl laurate polyoxyethylenated        with 30 oxyethylene units, for instance the product Tagat I@        from the company Goldschmidt;    -   esters of a fatty acid, especially of C₈-C₂₄ and preferably of        C₁₆-C₂₂, and of a polyglycerol, preferentially comprising from 4        to 20 glycerol groups;    -   esters of a fatty acid, especially a C₈-C₂₄ and preferably        C₁₆-C₂₂ fatty acid, and of (poly)oxyalkylenated sorbitol ethers,        which are in particular oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated        (which may comprise from 20 to 200 oxyethylene and/or        oxypropylene units), for instance the polysorbate 60 sold under        the name Tween 60@ by the company Uniqema;    -   and mixture(s) thereof; preferably, among the        (poly)oxyalkylenated alcohols preferably comprising from 20 to        200 oxyethylene (or ethylene glycol) units.

The term “fatty acid” should preferentially be understood as meaning afatty monoacid.

Preferably, a composition comprises at least one nonionic surfactantwith an HLB value, in the Griffin sense, at 25° C., of greater than orequal to 8, preferably greater than or equal to 10, chosen from:

-   -   at least one ether of a C₈-C₂₄, preferably C₁₂-C₂₂ and more        preferentially C₁₆-C₁₈, fatty alcohol and of polyethylene        glycol, said ether comprising at least 20 ethylene glycol units        and better still between 20 and 200 ethylene glycol units,    -   at least one ester of a C₁₂-C₂₀ fatty acid and of a polyglycerol        comprising from 4 to 20 glycerol groups, in particular from 8 to        12 glycerol groups, such as 10 glycerol groups, the alkyl chain        of the fatty acid advantageously being linear or branched, and        saturated or unsaturated, preferably linear and saturated,        preferentially chosen from polyglyceryl-10 stearate,        polyglyceryl-10 laurate, polyglyceryl-10 myristate, and a        mixture thereof, preferably polyglyceryl-10 stearate, and a        mixture thereof.

A composition according to the invention has a content of nonionicsurfactant(s) with an HLB value in the Griffin sense, at 25° C., ofgreater than or equal to 8, preferably greater than or equal to 10, ofgreater than or equal to 7% by weight relative to the total weight ofthe composition, preferably between 8% and 25% by weight relative to thetotal weight of the composition.

Nonionic Surfactant(s) with an HLB Value at 25° C. of Less Than 8

The nonionic surfactant(s) with an HLB value, in the Griffin sense, at25° C., of less than 8 comprise at least one surfactant advantageouslychosen from:

-   -   (poly)oxyalkylenated monosaccharide esters and ethers;    -   esters of fatty acids, especially of C₈-C₂₄ and preferably of        C₁₆-C₂₂, and of (poly)oxyalkylenated polyol, especially of        (poly)oxyalkylenated glycerol or of (poly)oxyalkylenated        sorbitol, preferably of (poly)oxyalkylenated glycerol;    -   esters of fatty acids, especially of C₈-C₂₄ and preferably of        C₁₆-C₂₂, and of (poly)glycerol, preferentially comprising one or        two glycerol groups;    -   (poly)oxyalkylenated alcohols;    -   and mixture(s) thereof; preferably from (poly)oxyalkylenated        alcohols preferably comprising from 1 to 10 oxyethylene units.        The term “(poly)oxyalkylenated” means from 1 to 10 oxyethylene        groups (or units) and better still from 2 to 6 oxyethylene        groups.        The term “fatty acid” should preferentially be understood as        meaning a fatty monoacid.

The nonionic surfactant(s) with an HLB value at 25° C. of less than 8are preferably chosen from:

-   -   at least one (poly)oxyalkylenated alcohol comprising an ether of        a C₈-C₂₄ fatty alcohol and of polyethylene glycol, said ether        comprising from 1 to 10 and better still between 2 and 6        ethylene glycol units, and    -   at least one ester of a fatty acid, especially of C₁₂-C₂₀, and        of one or two glycerol groups, said fatty acid preferably        comprising a C₁₂-C₂₀ alkyl chain which may be linear or        branched, and saturated or unsaturated, preferably linear and        saturated, chosen, for example, from glyceryl stearate, glyceryl        laurate, glyceryl myristate, polyglyceryl-2 stearate,        polyglyceryl-2 laurate and polyglyceryl-2 myristate, preferably        from glyceryl stearate,

and a mixture thereof.

A composition according to the invention has a content of nonionicsurfactant(s) with an HLB value, in the Griffin sense, at 25° C., ofless than 8, greater than or equal to 5% by weight relative to the totalweight of the composition, preferably between 8% and 20% by weightrelative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, a composition in accordance with the invention is free ofanionic surfactant(s).

Preferably, a composition in accordance with the invention is free ofamphoteric surfactant(s).

Moreover, the surfactant system may comprise one or more co-surfactantschosen from fatty alcohols comprising from 10 to 26 carbon atoms, betterstill from 12 to 24 carbon atoms and even better still from 14 to 22carbon atoms.

Lamellar Phase Lβ

The surfactant system in accordance with the invention organizes theaqueous phase in the form of a lamellar phase Lβ, or paracrystallinephase Lβ, or lamellar gel phase.

This composition is stable at a room temperature of 25° C., having aviscosity preferentially ranging from 5 to 50 Pa·s, measured at a roomtemperature of 25° C. using a Rheomat RM 100® rheometer.

The term “lamellar gel phase or paracrystalline phase Lβ” means a phasein which the surfactant molecules and/or more generally the molecules ofamphiphilic compounds are organized in the form of bimolecular layersspaced apart by aqueous leaflets. Within the bimolecular layers, themolecules are distributed in a hexagonal geometry, theirhydrocarbon-based chains are in a crystalline state and are orientedperpendicular to the plane of the bimolecular layers but have nospecific orientation relative to each other in the plane of theselayers.

The paracrystalline phases Lβ are metastable phases in which the fattychains are in solid form and are arranged randomly relative to eachother, unlike the micellar, hexagonal, cubic and lamellar fluidparacrystalline phases (Lα) in which the fatty chains are in liquidform, and unlike the crystalline phases in which the fatty chains are insolid form and oriented in an ordered manner relative to each other. Theparacrystalline phases Lβ are metastable and, in general, they have atendency to evolve towards crystallization. Now, the Applicant has founda particular surfactant system that makes it possible to obtain a stableparacrystalline phase Lβ, and thus cosmetic compositions for coatingkeratin fibres, in particular the eyelashes, which are stable andcomfortable to apply, having a curling effect, by using a particularsystem of surfactant type in particular contents.

To identify the lamellar gel phase or paracrystalline phase Lβ of thesurfactant system present in the composition of the invention, use maybe made of various techniques, and especially the technique of x-rayscattering.

Wide-Angle X-ray Scattering (WAXS)

X-ray diagrams were recorded by a Mar345 image plate detector(Maresearch, Norderstedt, Germany), mounted on a FR591 rotary anodeX-ray generator (Brüker, Courtaboeuf, France), used at 50 kV and at 50mA. The monochromatic CuKα radiation (λ=1.541 A) was focused with a 350μm focal spot at 320 mm by double reflection on an ellipticcross-section multilayer Montel mirror (Incoatec, Geesthacht, Germany).The beam was defined under vacuum by four motorized carbon-tungstenslits (JJ-Xray, Roskilde, Denmark) positioned in front of the mirror(500 μm). Four additional guard slits were placed at the focal pointwith a 220 mm slit separation. The flux after the output mica windowswas 3×10⁸ photons/s. A 2-mm diameter circular metal wire beam stop wasplaced in air at 150 mm after the sample, and the detector waspositioned at 360 mm. The X-ray diagrams were therefore recorded for arange of reciprocal spacing q=4π*sin θ/λ of 0.03-1.8 Å⁻¹, in which θ isthe scattering angle. The repetitive distances d=2π/q should be between200 A and 3.5 Å. The samples were placed in 1.2-1.3 mm glass capillaries(Glas W. Müller, Germany) and introduced into a home-made capillaryholder accommodating up to 20 capillaries at controlled temperature.

(Poly)Vinylpyrrolidone Hydrophilic Polymer(s)

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one(poly)vinylpyrrolidone hydrophilic polymer.

In the present patent application, the term “hydrophilic polymer” meansa water-soluble or water-dispersible polymer.

In the present patent application, the term “water-soluble orwater-dispersible polymer” means a polymer which, when introduced intowater at a concentration equal to 1%, gives a macroscopicallyhomogeneous solution whose light transmittance, at a wavelength equal to500 nm, through a sample 1 cm thick, is at least 10%.

These (poly)vinylpyrrolidone hydrophilic polymer(s) may have afilm-forming property.

In the present patent application, the term “film-forming polymer” isintended to mean a polymer that is capable, by itself or in the presenceof an auxiliary film-forming agent, of forming a macroscopicallycontinuous deposit, and preferably a cohesive deposit, and even betterstill a deposit of which the cohesion and mechanical properties are suchthat said deposit can be isolated and manipulated individually, forexample when said deposit is prepared by pouring onto a non-sticksurface such as a Teflon-coated or silicone-coated surface.

A (poly)vinylpyrrolidone hydrophilic polymer in accordance with theinvention has a weight-average molecular mass Mw ranging from 1500 to500,000 g/mol.

It is understood that these (poly)vinylpyrrolidone hydrophilicpolymer(s) in accordance with the invention are thus distinct from anaqueous dispersion of particles formed from one or more film-formingpolymers, more conventionally known as (pseudo)latex.

A composition according to the invention comprises a total solidscontent of (poly)vinylpyrrolidone hydrophilic polymer(s) of greater thanor equal to 1% by weight, preferably 3% by weight, more preferentially5% by weight, even more preferentially 8% by weight and in particularstrictly greater than 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of thecomposition.

A composition according to the invention preferably comprises a totalsolids content of (poly)vinylpyrrolidone hydrophilic polymer(s) rangingfrom 1% to 25% by weight, better still from 3% to 20% and even betterstill from 5% to 18% by weight, relative to the total weight of thecomposition.

Preferably, the (poly)vinylpyrrolidone hydrophilic polymer(s) inaccordance with the invention are linear.

Preferably, the (poly)vinylpyrrolidone hydrophilic polymer(s) inaccordance with the invention are chosen from statistical polymers,block copolymers, and a mixture thereof.

The term “block copolymer” means a polymer comprising at least twodifferent blocks and preferably at least three different blocks.

The (poly)vinylpyrrolidone hydrophilic polymer(s) are chosen from:

-   -   homopolymers of (poly)vinylpyrrolidone,    -   (poly)vinylpyrrolidone/poly(vinyl) acetate copolymers    -   (poly)vinylpyrrolidone/(meth)acrylic copolymers, salts thereof,        esters thereof

and a mixture thereof.

Examples of (poly)vinylpyrrolidone homopolymers that may be mentionedinclude:

-   -   the polyvinylpyrrolidone (2500 g/mol) sold under the trade name        Kollidon 17 PF by the company BASF,    -   the polyvinylpyrrolidone sold under the trade name Luviskol K 30        Powder by the company BASF or sold under the trade name PVP K        30L by the company ISP (Ashland),    -   the polyvinylpyrrolidone sold under the trade name PVP K 90 the        by the company ISP (Ashland).

Examples of (poly)vinylpyrrolidone/(poly)vinyl acetate copolymers thatmay be mentioned include the vinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acetate (60/40)copolymer sold under the trade name Luviskol VA 64 Powder by the companyBASF.

Examples of (poly)vinylpyrrolidone/(meth)acrylic copolymers that may bementioned include:

-   -   the ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP copolymer sold under the        trade name Aristoflex AVC by the company Clariant,        -   the vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate            copolymer at 20% in water sold under the trade name            Copolymer 845-O by the company ISP (Ashland).

The surfactant system and the (poly)vinylpyrrolidone hydrophilicpolymer(s) are present in a total respective weight content such thatthe weight ratio of the surfactant system to the hydrophilic polymer(s)ranges from 1 to 25 and more preferentially from 2 to 15.

Wax(es)

A composition according to the invention may comprise at least one wax.

More precisely, a composition according to the invention advantageouslycomprises from 0 to 25% by weight of wax(es), in particular from 1% to15% by weight of wax(es), for example from 1% to 8% by weight, relativeto the total weight of the composition.

A composition according to the invention may comprise a content ofwax(es) of less than 8% by weight, in particular less than 3% by weightand better still less than 1% by weight relative to the total weight ofthe composition.

The wax(es) are generally a lipophilic compound that is solid at roomtemperature (25° C.), with a solid/liquid reversible change of state,having a melting point of greater than or equal to 30° C., which may beup to 200° C. and especially up to 120° C.

For the purposes of the invention, the melting point corresponds to thetemperature of the most endothermic peak observed on thermal analysis(DSC) as described in standard ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point ofthe wax may be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC),for example the calorimeter sold under the name DSC Q2000 by the companyTA Instruments.

Preferably, the waxes have a heat of fusion ΔHf of greater than or equalto 70 J/g.

Preferably, the waxes comprise at least one crystallizable part, whichis visible by X-ray observation.

The measurement protocol is as follows:

A 5 mg sample of wax placed in a crucible is subjected to a firsttemperature increase from −20° C. to 120° C., at a heating rate of 10°C./minute, and then is cooled from 120° C. to −20° C. at a cooling rateof 10° C./minute and finally subjected to a second temperature increasefrom −20° C. to 120° C. at a heating rate of 5° C./minute. During thesecond temperature increase, the following parameters are measured:

-   the melting point (Mp) of the wax, as mentioned previously    corresponding to the temperature of the most endothermic peak of the    melting curve observed, representing the variation of the difference    in power absorbed as a function of the temperature,-   ΔHf: the heat of fusion of the wax, corresponding to the integral of    the entire melting curve obtained. This heat of fusion of the wax is    the amount of energy required to make the compound change from the    solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J/g.

The wax(es) may be hydrocarbon-based waxes, fluoro waxes and/or siliconewaxes and may be of plant, mineral, animal and/or synthetic origin.

A composition in accordance with the invention may comprise at least onehard wax chosen from the group consisting of polar waxes and apolarwaxes, and a mixture thereof.

A composition in accordance with the invention may comprise at least onewax chosen from the group consisting of polar waxes and apolar waxes,and a mixture thereof.

A composition in accordance with the invention advantageously comprisesat least one hard polar wax.

According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to theinvention comprises less than 5% by weight of hard wax(es), which arepreferably polar, and at least 3% by weight of (poly)vinylpyrrolidonehydrophilic polymer(s) relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to theinvention comprises at least 10% by weight of hard wax(es), which arepreferably polar, and at least 1% by weight of (poly)vinylpyrrolidonehydrophilic polymer(s) relative to the total weight of the composition.

Hard Wax(es)

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the compositionadvantageously comprises at least one hard wax.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “hard wax” means awax with a melting point ranging from 65 to 120° C., more preferentiallybetween 70 and 110° C. and even more preferentially between 75 and 100°C.

Advantageously, for the purposes of the present invention, the term“hard” wax means a wax having, at 20° C., a hardness of greater than 5MPa, especially ranging from 5 to 30 MPa, preferably greater than 6 MPaand better still ranging from 6 to 25 MPa.

To take these hardness measurements, the wax is melted at a temperatureequal to the melting point of the wax +20° C. To do this, 30 g of waxare placed in a 100 ml beaker 50 mm in diameter, which is itself placedon a magnetic-stirring hotplate.

An amount of about 15 g of molten wax is poured into a stainless-steelcontainer 80 mm in diameter and 15 mm deep preheated to 45° C. in anoven. The wax is then left to recrystallize in a room thermostaticallymaintained at 20° C. for 24 hours before taking the measurement.

The mechanical properties of the wax or of the mixture of waxes aredetermined in a room thermostatically maintained at 20° C., using atexturometer sold under the name TA-XT2i by the company Swantech,equipped with a stainless-steel cylinder 2 mm in diameter.

The measurement comprises three steps: a first step after automaticdetection of the surface of the sample, where the spindle moves at ameasuring speed of 0.1 mm/s, and penetrates into the wax to apenetration depth of 0.3 mm, the software notes the maximum force valuereached; a second “relaxation” step where the spindle remains at thisposition for one second and the force is noted after 1 second ofrelaxation; finally, a third “withdrawal” step in which the spindlereturns to its initial position at a speed of 1 mm/s, and the probewithdrawal energy (negative force) is noted.

The hardness value corresponds to the maximum measured compression forcein newtons divided by the area of the texturometer cylinder, expressedin mm², in contact with the wax. The hardness value obtained isexpressed in megapascals or MPa.

As examples of hard wax, mention may be made especially of carnauba wax,candelilla wax, the wax Bis-PEG-12 Dimethicone Candelillate, forinstance Siliconyl Candelilla Wax sold by the company Koster Keunen,hydrogenated jojoba wax, for instance the product sold by the companyDesert Whale, hydrogenated palm oil such as the product sold by thecompany SIO, rice bran wax, sumach wax, ceresin waxes, laurel wax,Chinese insect wax, shellac wax, hydrogenated olive oil such as Waxolivefrom the company Soliance, the waxes obtained by hydrogenation of oliveoil esterified with C12 to C18 fatty-chain alcohols, such as theproducts sold by the company Sophim under the trade names Phytowax Olive12L44, 14L48, 16L55 and 18L57, the waxes obtained by hydrogenation ofcastor oil esterified with cetyl or behenyl alcohol, for instance theproducts sold under the names Phytowax Ricin 16L64 and Phytowax Ricin22L73 by the company Sophim, hydrogenated camelina wax, ouricury wax,montan wax, ozokerite waxes, for instance Wax SP 1020 P sold by thecompany Strahl & Pitsch, microcrystalline waxes, for instance theproduct sold under the trade name Microwax HW by the company Paramelt,lauric, palmitic, cetylic and stearic acid triglycerides (INCI name:hydrogenated cocoyl glycerides), for instance the product sold under thetrade name Softisan 100 by the company Sasol, polymethylene waxes, forinstance the product sold under the trade name Cirebelle 303 by thecompany Sasol, polyethylene waxes, for instance the products sold underthe trade names Performalene 400 polyethylene, Performalene 655polyethylene and Performalene 500-L polyethylene by the company NewPhase Technologies, alcohol-polyethylene waxes, for instance the productsold under the name Performacol 425 Alcohol by the company Bareco, the95/5 ethylene/acrylic acid copolymer sold under the trade name wax AC540 by the company Honeywell, hydroxyoctacosanyl hydroxystearate, forinstance the product sold under the trade name Elfacos C 26 by thecompany Akzo, octacosanyl stearate, for instance the product sold underthe name Kester Wax K 82 H by the company Koster Keunen, stearylstearate, for instance the product sold under the name Liponate SS bythe company Lipo Chemicals, pentaerythrityl distearate, for instance theproduct sold under the name Cutina PES by the company Cognis, themixture of dibehenyl adipate, dioctadecyl adipate and dieicosanyladipate (INCI name: C₁₈₋₂₂ dialkyl adipate), the mixture of dilauryladipate and ditetradecyl adipate (INCI name: C₁₂₋₁₄ dialkyl adipate),the mixture of dioctadecyl sebacate, didocosyl sebacate and dieicosylsebacate (INCI name: C₁₈₋₂₂ dialkyl sebacate), the mixture ofdioctadecyl octadecanedioate, didocosyl octanedioate and dieicosyloctanedioate (INCI name: C₁₈₋₂₂ dialkyl octanedioate), for instance theproducts sold by the company Cognis, pentaerythrityl tetrastearate, forinstance Liponate PS-4 from the company Lipo Chemicals, tetracontanylstearate, for instance Kester Wax K76 H from the company Koster Keunen,stearyl benzoate, for instance Finsolv 116 from the company Finetex,behenyl fumarate, for instance Marrix 222 from the company Akzo Bernel,bis(1,1,1-trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate, for instance the productproposed under the name Hest 2T-4S by the company Heterene,didotriacontanyl distearate, for instance Kester Wax K82D from thecompany Koster Keunen, polyethylene glycol montanate containing 4oxyethylene units (PEG-4), for instance the product sold under the tradename Clariant Licowax KST1, hexanediol disalicylate, for instanceBetawax RX-13750 sold by the company CP Hall, dipentaerythritylhexastearate, for instance the product proposed under the trade nameHest 2P-6S by the company Heterene, ditrimethylolpropane tetrabehenate,for instance the product sold under the trade name Hest 2T-4B by thecompany Heterene, jojoba esters, for instance the product sold under thetrade name Floraester HIP by the company Floratech, mixtures of linearcarboxylic acid (C20-40)/saturated hydrocarbons (INCI name: C20-40 acidpolyethylene), for instance Performacid 350 acid from the company NewPhase Technologies, synthetic wax of Fischer-Tropsch type, such as theproduct sold under the reference Rosswax 100 by the company Ross,stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, dioctadecyl carbonate, for instanceCutina KE 3737, sucrose polybehenate, for instance Crodaderm B from thecompany Croda, and mixtures thereof.

Use may also be made of the waxes mentioned above in the form ofcommercially available mixtures, for example under the names KosterKPC-56 (mixture of 87.5% by weight of cetyl stearate, 7.5% by weight ofbehenyl alcohol and 5% by weight of palm kernel glycerides), KPC-60(mixture of 87.5% by weight of stearyl stearate, 7.5% by weight ofbehenyl alcohol and 5% by weight of palm kernel glycerides), KPC-63(mixture of 87.5% by weight of behenyl stearate, 7.5% by weight ofbehenyl alcohol and 5% by weight of palm kernel glycerides) and KPC-80(mixture of 86% by weight of synthetic beeswax, 7.5% of hydrogenatedplant oil and 6.5% by weight of behenyl alcohol) from the company KosterKeunen.

Use is preferably made of waxes of plant origin such as carnauba wax,candelilla wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, sumach wax, the waxes obtainedby hydrogenation of olive oil esterified with C12 to C18 fatty-chainalcohols sold by the company Sophim under the name Phytowax (12L44,14L48, 16L55 and 18L57), rice bran wax, stearyl and behenyl alcohols,laurel wax or ouricury wax.

The hard wax(es) are preferably polar.

Polar Wax(es)

According to one embodiment, the composition according to the inventionmay comprise at least one polar wax.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “polar wax” means awax whose solubility parameter at 25° C., δ_(a), is other than 0(J/cm³)^(1/2).

In particular, the term “polar wax” means a wax whose chemical structureis formed essentially from, or even constituted of, carbon and hydrogenatoms, and comprising at least one highly electronegative heteroatomsuch as an oxygen, nitrogen, silicon or phosphorus atom.

The definition and calculation of the solubility parameters in theHansen three-dimensional solubility space are described in the articleby C. M. Hansen: The three-dimensional solubility parameters, J. PaintTechnol. 39, 105 (1967).

According to this Hansen space:

-   -   δ_(D) characterizes the London dispersion forces derived from        the formation of dipoles induced during molecular impacts;    -   δ_(p) characterizes the Debye interaction forces between        permanent dipoles and also the Keesom interaction forces between        induced dipoles and permanent dipoles;    -   δ_(h) characterizes the specific interaction forces (such as        hydrogen bonding, acid/base, donor/acceptor, etc.); and    -   δ_(a) is determined by the equation: δ_(a)=(δ_(p) ²⁺δ_(h)        ²)^(1/2)

The parameters δ_(p), δ_(h), δ_(D) and δ_(a) are expressed in(J/cm³)^(1/2).

The polar waxes may especially be hydrocarbon-based, fluoro or siliconewaxes.

The term “silicone wax” means an oil comprising at least one siliconatom, especially comprising Si—O groups.

The term “hydrocarbon-based wax” is intended to mean a wax formedessentially from, or even constituted of, carbon and hydrogen atoms, andoptionally oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and that does not contain anysilicon or fluorine atoms. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether,carboxylic acid, amine and/or amide groups.

According to a first preferred embodiment, the polar wax is ahydrocarbon-based wax. As a hydrocarbon-based polar wax, a wax chosenfrom ester waxes and alcohol waxes is in particular preferred.

The expression “ester wax” is understood according to the invention tomean a wax comprising at least one ester function. The expression“alcohol wax” is understood according to the invention to mean a waxcomprising at least one alcohol function, i.e. comprising at least onefree hydroxyl (OH) group.

In particular, use may be made, preferably, as an ester wax, of thosechosen from:

i) Waxes of formula R₁COOR₂ in which R₁ and R₂ represent linear,branched or cyclic aliphatic chains, the number of atoms of which variesfrom 10 to 50, which may contain a heteroatom such as O, N or P and themelting point of which varies from 25° C. to 120° C. In particular, usemay be made, as an ester wax, of a C₂₀-C₄₀ alkyl(hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group comprising from 20 to 40carbon atoms), alone or as a mixture, or a C₂₀-C₄₀ alkyl stearate. Suchwaxes are especially sold under the names Kester Wax K 82 P®,Hydroxypolyester K 82 P®, Kester Wax K 80 P® and Kester Wax K82H by thecompany Koster Keunen.Use may also be made of a glycol and butylene glycol montanate(octacosanoate) such as the wax Licowax KPS Flakes (INCI name: glycolmontanate) sold by the company Clariant.ii) Bis(1,1,1-trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate, sold under the nameHest 2T-4S® by the company Heterene,iii) Diester waxes of a dicarboxylic acid of general formulaR³—(—OCO—R⁴—COO—R⁵), in which R³ and R⁵ are identical or different,preferably identical and represent a C₄-C₃₀ alkyl group (alkyl groupcomprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms) and R⁴ represents a linear orbranched C₄-C₃₀ aliphatic group (alkyl group comprising from 4 to 30carbon atoms) which may or may not contain one or more unsaturatedgroups, and preferably that is linear and unsaturated,iv) Mention may also be made of the waxes obtained by catalytichydrogenation of animal or plant oils having linear or branched C₈-C₃₂fatty chains, for example such as hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenatedsunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, andalso the waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified withcetyl alcohol, such as those sold under the names Phytowax ricin 16L64®and 22L73® by the company SOPHIM. Such waxes are described in patentapplication FR-A-2 792 190 and the waxes obtained by hydrogenation ofolive oil esterified with stearyl alcohol such as the product sold underthe name Phytowax Olive 18 L 57, or alternatively;v) Beeswax, synthetic beeswax, polyglycerolated beeswax, carnauba wax,candelilla wax, oxypropylenated lanolin wax, rice bran wax, ouricurywax, esparto grass wax, cork fibre wax, sugar cane wax, Japan wax,sumach wax; montan wax, orange wax, laurel wax and hydrogenated jojobawax.

According to another embodiment, the polar wax may be an alcohol wax.According to the invention, the term “alcohol wax” means a waxcomprising at least one alcohol function, i.e. comprising at least onefree hydroxyl (OH) group.

Alcohol waxes that may be mentioned include for example the waxPerformacol 550-L Alcohol from New Phase Technologies, stearyl alcoholand cetyl alcohol.

According to a second embodiment, the polar wax may be a silicone waxsuch as siliconized beeswax, or an alkyl dimethicone such as the C₃₀-C₄₅alkyl dimethicone sold under the reference SF1642 by MomentivePerformance Materials.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises acontent of polar wax, in particular a hard polar wax, and especially apolar hydrocarbon-based wax,

ranging from 1% to 25% by weight of wax relative to the total weight ofthe composition, better still from 1% to 8% by weight and in particularfrom 1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Apolar Waxes:

The composition according to the invention may comprise at least oneapolar wax.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “apolar wax” means awax whose solubility parameter at 25° C. as defined below, δ_(a), isequal to 0 (J/cm³)^(1/2).

Apolar waxes are in particular hydrocarbon-based waxes constitutedsolely of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and free of heteroatoms such as N,O, Si and P.

In particular, the expression “apolar wax” is understood to mean a waxthat is constituted solely of apolar wax, rather than a mixture alsocomprising other types of waxes that are not apolar waxes.

As illustrations of apolar waxes that are suitable for the invention,mention may be made especially of hydrocarbon-based waxes, for instancemicrocrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, ozokerite, polyethylene waxes,and a mixture thereof.

Polyethylene waxes that may be mentioned include Performalene 500-LPolyethylene and Performalene 400 Polyethylene sold by New PhaseTechnologies.

An ozokerite that may be mentioned is Ozokerite Wax SP 1020 P.

As microcrystalline waxes that may be used, mention may be made ofMultiwax W 445® sold by the company Sonneborn, and Microwax HW® and BaseWax 30540® sold by the company Paramelt.

As microwaxes that may be used in the compositions according to theinvention as apolar wax, mention may be made especially of polyethylenemicrowaxes such as those sold under the names Micropoly 200®, 220®,220L® and 250S® by the company Micro Powders.

Dyestuffs

The compositions in accordance with the invention comprise at least onedyestuff.

This (or these) dyestuffs are preferably chosen from pulverulentsubstances, liposoluble dyes and water-soluble dyes, and mixturesthereof.

Preferably, the compositions according to the invention comprise atleast one pulverulent dyestuff. The pulverulent dyestuffs may be chosenfrom pigments and nacres, and preferably from pigments.

The pigments may be white or coloured, mineral and/or organic, andcoated or uncoated. Among the mineral pigments, mention may be made ofmetal oxides, in particular titanium dioxide, optionallysurface-treated, zirconium, zinc or cerium oxide, and also iron,titanium or chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromiumhydrate and ferric blue. Among the organic pigments that may bementioned are carbon black, pigments of D&C type and lakes based oncochineal carmine or on barium, strontium, calcium or aluminium.

The nacres may be chosen from white nacreous pigments such as micacoated with titanium or with bismuth oxychloride, coloured nacreouspigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica inparticular with ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica with anorganic pigment of the abovementioned type, and also nacreous pigmentsbased on bismuth oxychloride.

The liposoluble dyes are, for example, Sudan Red, D&C Red 17, D&C Green6, β-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan Brown, D&C Yellow 11, D&C Violet 2,D&C Orange 5, quinoline yellow and annatto.

Preferably, the pigments contained in the compositions according to theinvention are chosen from metal oxides.

These dyestuffs may be present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 30% byweight relative to the total weight of the composition and in particularfrom 3% to 22% by weight relative to the total weight of thecomposition.

Preferably, the dyestuff(s) are chosen from one or more metal oxidesthat are present in a content of greater than or equal to 2% by weightrelative to the total weight of the composition, and advantageouslyinclusively between 3% and 22% by weight relative to the total weight ofthe composition.

Fillers

The compositions in accordance with the invention may also comprise atleast one filler.

The fillers may be selected from those that are well known to thoseskilled in the art and commonly used in cosmetic compositions. Thefillers may be mineral or organic, and lamellar or spherical. Mentionmay be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, polyamide powders, forinstance the Nylon® sold under the name Orgasol® by the company Atochem,poly-β-alanine powders and polyethylene powders, powders oftetrafluoroethylene polymers, for instance Teflon®, lauroyllysine,starch, boron nitride, expanded polymeric hollow microspheres such asthose of polyvinylidene chloride/acrylonitrile, for instance theproducts sold under the name Expancel® by the company Nobel Industrie,acrylic powders such as those sold under the name Polytrap® by thecompany Dow Corning, polymethyl methacrylate particles and siliconeresin microbeads (for example Tospearls® from Toshiba), precipitatedcalcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and magnesium hydrocarbonate,hydroxyapatite, hollow silica microspheres (Silica Beads® fromMaprecos), glass or ceramic microcapsules, metal soaps derived fromorganic carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms and inparticular from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc, magnesium orlithium stearate, zinc laurate and magnesium myristate.

The fillers may represent from 0.1% to 15% by weight and in particularfrom 0.5% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of thecomposition.

Cosmetic Active Agents

The compositions in accordance with the invention may also comprise atleast one cosmetic active agent.

As cosmetic active agents that may be used in the compositions inaccordance with the invention, mention may be made especially ofantioxidants, preserving agents, fragrances, neutralizers, emollients,coalescers, moisturizers, vitamins and screening agents, in particularsunscreens, and mixtures thereof.

Needless to say, a person skilled in the art will take care to selectthe optional additional ingredients and/or the amount thereof such thatthe advantageous properties of the composition according to theinvention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by theenvisaged addition.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention is a leave-incomposition. Advantageously, the composition is a makeup composition andin particular a mascara.

Oil or Organic Solvent

The compositions according to the invention may comprise at least oneoil or organic solvent.

The compositions according to the invention may in particular compriseat least one oil chosen from at least one non-volatile oil, at least onevolatile oil, and a mixture thereof.

Non-Volatile Oil

The term “oil” means a fatty substance that is liquid at roomtemperature and at atmospheric pressure.

The term “non-volatile oil” means an oil that remains on the skin or thekeratin fibre at room temperature and pressure. More precisely, anon-volatile oil has an evaporation rate strictly less than 0.01mg/cm²/min.

To measure this evaporation rate, 15 g of oil or of oil mixture to betested are placed in a crystallizing dish 7 cm in diameter, which isplaced on a balance in a large chamber of about 0.3 m³ that istemperature-regulated, at a temperature of 25° C., andhygrometry-regulated, at a relative humidity of 50%. The liquid isallowed to evaporate freely, without stirring it, while providingventilation by means of a fan (Papst-Motoren, reference 8550 N, rotatingat 2700 rpm) placed in a vertical position above the crystallizing dishcontaining said oil or said mixture, the blades being directed towardsthe crystallizing dish, 20 cm away from the bottom of the crystallizingdish. The mass of oil remaining in the crystallizing dish is measured atregular intervals. The evaporation rates are expressed in mg of oilevaporated per unit of area (cm²) and per unit of time (minutes).

Said at least one non-volatile oil may be chosen from hydrocarbon-basedoils and silicone oils, and mixtures thereof, preferably fromhydrocarbon-based oils.

The non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils that are suitable for thepresent invention may be chosen in particular from:

-   hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, such as triglycerides    consisting of fatty acid esters of glycerol, the fatty acids of    which may have chain lengths ranging from C4 to C28, these fatty    acids possibly being linear or branched, and saturated or    unsaturated; these oils are especially wheatgerm oil, sunflower oil,    grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, corn oil, apricot oil, castor oil,    shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil,    rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba    oil, palm oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, sesame seed oil,    marrow oil, rapeseed oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil,    millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil,    candlenut oil, passion flower oil and musk rose oil; or    alternatively caprylic/capric acid triglycerides such as those sold    by the company Stéarineries Dubois or those sold under the names    Miglyol 810®, 812® and 818® by the company Sasol;-   synthetic ethers containing from 10 to 40 carbon atoms;-   linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin other    than the polymers according to the invention, such as petroleum    jelly, polybutenes, polydecenes and squalane, and mixtures thereof;-   synthetic esters such as oils of formula R1COOR2 in which R1    represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue containing from 1    to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents an especially branched    hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, on    condition that R1+R2≥10, for instance purcellin oil (cetostearyl    octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C12 to C15    alkyl benzoate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl    isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearate isostearate, alkyl    or polyalkyl octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates such as    propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters such as    isostearate lactate and diisostearyl malate; and pentaerythritol    esters;-   fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature, with a branched    and/or unsaturated carbon-based chain containing from 12 to 26    carbon atoms, for instance octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl    alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol and 2-undecylpentadecanol;    and-   higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid or linolenic    acid, and mixtures thereof.

The non-volatile silicone oils that are suitable for the presentinvention may be chosen in particular from:

-   the non-volatile silicone oils that may be used in the composition    in accordance with the invention may be non-volatile    polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising    alkyl or alkoxy groups, that are pendent and/or at the end of a    silicone chain, the groups each containing from 2 to 24 carbon    atoms, phenyl silicones, for instance phenyl trimethicones, phenyl    dimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl    dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes and 2-phenylethyl    trimethylsiloxysilicates.

A composition according to the invention optionally comprises at leastone hydrocarbon-based non-volatile oil of plant origin, such astriglycerides consisting of fatty acid esters of glycerol the fattyacids of which may have chain lengths ranging from C4 to C28, inparticular palm oil and hydrogenated jojoba oil(s). A compositionaccording to the invention is preferably free of silicone non-volatileoil(s).

A composition according to the invention is preferably free ofnon-volatile oil. However, the total content of non-volatile oil(s) in acomposition in accordance with the invention may range from 0.01% to 10%by weight, in particular less than 8% by weight and preferably less than5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to one preferred embodiment, a composition according to theinvention comprises less than 3% by weight of non-volatile oil(s)relative to the total weight of the composition.

Volatile Oil

The composition according to the invention may comprise at least onevolatile oil.

The term “volatile oil” means an oil (or non-aqueous medium) that canevaporate on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at roomtemperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is a cosmeticvolatile oil, which is liquid at room temperature. More specifically, avolatile oil has an evaporation rate of between 0.01 and 200 mg/cm²/min,limits included.

This volatile oil may be hydrocarbon-based.

The volatile hydrocarbon-based oil may be chosen from hydrocarbon-basedoils containing from 7 to 16 carbon atoms.

The composition according to the invention may contain one or morevolatile branched alkanes. The expression “one or more volatile branchedalkanes” means, without preference, “one or more volatile branchedalkane oils”.

As a volatile hydrocarbon-based oil containing from 7 to 16 carbonatoms, mention may be made especially of C8-C16 branched alkanes, forinstance C8-C16 isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), isododecane,isodecane, isohexadecane and for example the oils sold under the tradenames Isobar or Permethyl, C8-C16 branched esters such as isohexylneopentanoate, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the volatilehydrocarbon-based oil containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms is chosenfrom isododecane, isodecane and isohexadecane, and mixtures thereof, andis especially isododecane.

The composition according to the invention may contain one or morevolatile linear alkanes. The term “one or more volatile linear alkanes”means, without preference, “one or more volatile linear alkane oils”.

A volatile linear alkane that is suitable for the invention is liquid atroom temperature (about 25° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

A “volatile linear alkane” that is suitable for the invention means acosmetic linear alkane, which is capable of evaporating on contact withthe skin in less than one hour, at room temperature (25° C.) andatmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 101 325 Pa), which is liquid atroom temperature, especially having an evaporation rate ranging from0.01 to 15 mg/cm²/min, at room temperature (25° C.) and atmosphericpressure (760 mmHg).

The linear alkanes, preferably of plant origin, comprise from 7 to 15carbon atoms, in particular from 9 to 14 carbon atoms and moreparticularly from 11 to 13 carbon atoms.

As examples of linear alkanes that are suitable for use in theinvention, mention may be made of the alkanes described in patentapplications WO 2007/068 371 or WO 2008/155,059 by the company Cognis(mixtures of distinct alkanes that differ by at least one carbon). Thesealkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols, which are themselves obtainedfrom coconut oil or palm oil.As examples of linear alkanes that are suitable for the invention,mention may be made of n-heptane (C7), n-octane (C8), n-nonane (C9),n-decane (C10), n-undecane (C11), n-dodecane (C12), n-tridecane (C13),n-tetradecane (C14) and n-pentadecane (C15), and mixtures thereof, andin particular the mixture of n-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (C13)described in Example 1 of patent application WO 2008/155 059 by thecompany Cognis. Mention may also be made of n-dodecane (C12) andn-tetradecane (C14) sold by Sasol under the references, respectively,Parafol 12-97 and Parafol 14-97, and also mixtures thereof.The linear alkane may be used alone or as a mixture of at least twodistinct alkanes that differ from each other by a carbon number of atleast 1, and especially a mixture of at least two linear alkanescomprising from 10 to 14 distinct carbon atoms that differ from eachother by a carbon number of at least 2, and in particular a mixture ofC11/C13 volatile linear alkanes or a mixture of C12/C14 linear alkanes,in particular an n-undecane/n-tridecane mixture (such a mixture may beobtained according to Example 1 or Example 2 of WO 2008/155,059).

As a variant or additionally, the composition prepared may comprise atleast one volatile silicone oil or solvent that is compatible withcosmetic use.

The term “silicone oil” means an oil containing at least one siliconatom, and especially containing Si—O groups. According to oneembodiment, said composition comprises less than 10% by weight ofvolatile silicone oil(s), relative to the total weight of thecomposition, better still less than 5% by weight, or even is free ofvolatile silicone oil.

Volatile silicone oils that may be mentioned include cyclicpolysiloxanes and linear polysiloxanes, and mixtures thereof. Volatilelinear polysiloxanes that may be mentioned include hexamethyldisiloxane,octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane,tetradecamethylhexasiloxane and hexadecamethylheptasiloxane. Volatilecyclic polysiloxanes that may be mentioned includehexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane,decamethylcyclopentasiloxane and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane.

As a variant or additionally, the composition prepared may comprise atleast one volatile fluoro oil.

The term “fluoro oil” means an oil containing at least one fluorineatom.

Volatile fluoro oils that may be mentioned includenonafluoromethoxybutane and perfluoromethylcyclopentane, and mixturesthereof.

A composition according to the invention is preferably free of volatileoil. However, at least one volatile oil may be present in a totalcontent of less than 8% by weight. In particular, the volatile oil maybe present in the composition in a content of less than 5% by weightrelative to the total weight of the composition.

According to one preferred embodiment, a composition according to theinvention comprises less than 3% by weight of volatile oil(s) relativeto the total weight of the composition.

Assembly

An assembly for coating keratin fibres suitable for the invention maycomprise an applicator suitable for applying said cosmetic compositionfor coating keratin fibres and, where appropriate, a packaging devicesuitable for receiving said composition. According to a particularembodiment, such an assembly may comprise means for heating acomposition in accordance with the invention.

Heating Means

A composition in accordance with the invention may be subjected toheating means before and/or during application.

These heating means may be integrally fastened to an assembly forcoating keratin fibres and more particularly to an applicator suitablefor applying said cosmetic composition for coating keratin fibres, andoptionally, where appropriate, to a packaging device suitable forreceiving said composition.

These heating means are then suitable for melting at least part of thefatty phase, and especially at least part of the surfactant system and,where appropriate, at least part of the soft wax(es), and optionally atleast part of the hard wax particles. The wax particles are heated to atemperature T_(c) such that only part of the crystallizable chains ismelted.

The heating means may also come into contact with or face thecomposition to be heated.

The composition may be heated while it is contained in a packagingdevice.

The composition may be heated while it is at least partially exposed tothe ambient air.

The composition may be locally heated to a temperature greater than orequal to 45° C., or even greater than or equal to 50° C., or evengreater than or equal to 55° C. The temperature of the compositionshould not entail any risk of burning at the time of application. Thisis why when the composition is heated before application, a waiting timebetween the moment at which the composition is heated and theapplication to the keratin materials may optionally be necessary.

According to one embodiment variant, the composition is heatedsimultaneously with its application to the keratin fibres.

According to another variant, the composition is heated before andduring its application to the keratin fibres.

The temperature to which at least part of the composition is heated maybe inclusively between 45° C. and 95° C., better still 50° C. to 85° C.and even better still 55° C. to 75° C.

The temperature may be measured, for example, at the surface using aninfrared pyrometer, for example a Fluke® brand machine.

The composition in accordance with the invention is capable of passingfrom a solid state to an at least partially liquid or even totallyliquid state, and of doing so reversibly.

The solid/liquid change of state is at least partly due to the meltingof a crystalline part, in particular of the wax(es) described previouslyin the present description.

The total heat of fusion of the composition is the heat consumed by thecomposition between −20° C. and 120° C. The total heat of fusion of thecomposition is equal to the area under the curve of the thermogramobtained using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), such as thecalorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by the company TA Instrument,with a temperature rise of 5° C. or 10° C. per minute, according tostandard ISO 11357-3:1999.

Measuring Protocol:

A 5 mg sample of composition is placed in a crucible and subjected to afirst temperature rise ranging from −20° C. to 120° C., at a heatingrate of 10° C./minute, and is then cooled from 120° C. to −20° C. at acooling rate of 10° C./minute. The sample is maintained at −20° C. for 5minutes and finally subjected to a second temperature rise ranging from−20° C. to 100° C. at a heating rate of 5° C./minute.

During the second temperature rise, the variation in the difference inpower absorbed by an empty crucible and by the crucible containing thesample of the composition is measured as a function of the temperature.The melting point of the compound is the value of the temperaturecorresponding to the top of the peak of the curve representing thevariation in the difference in power absorbed as a function of thetemperature.

The heat of fusion of the composition consumed at the temperature T_(c)is the amount of energy required to make the compound pass from thesolid or very viscous state at −20° C. to the state of the compositionat the temperature T_(c). It is expressed in J/g.

According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition is chosensuch that the ratio of the heat consumed between −20° C. and T_(c) bythe product to the total heat consumed between −20° C. and 120° C. isgreater than 0.4.

This relationship is confirmed, for example, for a temperature T_(c) ofthe composition of between 45° C. and 80° C.

The choice of the temperature T_(c) to which the composition is broughtby the heating means may thus be made so that said ratio is greater than0.4, for example inclusively between 0.4 and 0.9. In other words,heating is performed to a temperature such that the ratio of the heatsupplied to heat the sample of composition to the temperature T_(c) tothe total heat is greater than or equal to 0.4, such a parameter beingmeasured according to the DSC protocol described above.

Only the heated composition can come into contact with the keratinfibres, for example the eyelashes, during the application.

Applicator

The applicator may comprise means for smoothing and/or separatingkeratin fibres, such as the eyelashes or the eyebrows, in particular inthe form of teeth, bristles or other reliefs.

The applicator is arranged to apply the composition to the eyelashes orthe eyebrows, and may comprise, for example, a brush or a comb.

The applicator may also be used for finishing of the makeup, over aregion of the eyelashes or eyebrows that is made up or laden withcomposition.

The brush may comprise a twisted core and bristles held between theturns of the core, or may be made in yet another way.

The comb is, for example, produced from a single part by moulding of aplastic.

In certain exemplary embodiments, the application member is mounted atthe end of a wand, which wand may be flexible, which may contribute toimproving the comfort during application.

Packaging Device

The packaging device may comprise a container for housing thecomposition for coating keratin fibres. This composition may then bewithdrawn from the container by immersing the applicator therein.

This applicator may be firmly attached to a member for closing thecontainer. This closing member may form a member for gripping theapplicator. This gripping member may form a cap to be removably mountedon said container by any suitable means, such as screwing,click-fastening, coupling, etc. Such a container may thus reversiblyhouse said applicator.

This container can be optionally equipped with a wiper suitable forremoving a surplus of product withdrawn by the applicator.

A process for applying the composition according to the invention to theeyelashes or the eyebrows may also include the following steps:

-   forming a deposit of the cosmetic composition on the eyelashes or    the eyebrows,-   leaving the deposit on the eyelashes or the eyebrows, it being    possible for the deposit to dry.

It should be noted that, according to another embodiment, the applicatormay form a product container. In such a case, a container may, forexample, be provided for in the gripping member and an internal channelcan internally connect this gripping member to the application membersin relief.

Finally, it should be noted that the packaging and application assemblymay be in the form of a kit, it being possible for the applicator andthe packaging device to be housed separately in the same packagingarticle.

The examples above and that follow are given as illustrations of thepresent invention, and shall not limit the scope thereof.

EXAMPLES

Mascara compositions C1 to C5 in accordance with the invention wereprepared and evaluated:

Ingredients with percentage content of Commercial Mw in Phases solidsname Suppliers g/mol C1 C2 C3 C4 C5 Phase Steareth-2 Brij S2-SO- Croda —10 10 10 — — A (TH) Glyceryl Tegin M Evonik — — — — 10 — stearatePellets Goldschmidt Steareth- Brij S20-PA- Croda — 20 20 20 20 — 20 (SG)Glyceryl Arlacel 165-FL- Croda — — — — — 30 stearate (CQ) (and) PEG- 100stearate Iron Sunpuro Sun — 8 8 8 8 8 oxides Black Iron Oxide C33-7001Phase Polyvinyl- PVP K 30L ISP  34 000 3 — — — — B pyrrolidone (Ashland)Polyvinyl- PVP K 90 ISP 440 000 — 3 — 3 3 pyrrolidone (Ashland)Vinylpyrroli- Luviskol BASF  33 000 — — 3 — — done/vinyl VA 64 acetatepowder copolymer (60/40) Water qs qs qs qs qs 100 100 100 100 100 PhasePreserving agent qs qs qs qs qs C

1—Protocol for Preparing Said Compositions

Preparation of Phase A

The starting materials are first weighed out carefully using a balance(precision =0.01 g). The ingredients of phase A are melted in a jacketedheating pan in which circulates an oil whose temperature is controlledby means of a thermostatic oil bath. The nominal temperature is set at80° C. After total melting, the pigment is introduced with stirringusing a Rayneri blender. Stirring is continued until a homogeneouspreparation is obtained.Preparation of Phase BThe water is preheated in an electric kettle to 95° C. The polymer isintroduced into the water in a beaker at a temperature of 80° C. withstirring using a Rayneri blender.Mixing of Phases A and BPhase B is poured into phase A with stirring for 5 minutes at 95° C.using a Rayneri blender. Phase A+B is then cooled to room temperature.Addition of Phase CPhase C is introduced into phase A+B when the temperature of the mixtureis less than or equal to 40° C.End of FormulationThe mascara thus obtained is transferred into a closed container toprevent it from drying out on contact with air. After 24 hours, thesatisfactory nature of the homogeneity and the dispersion of the pigmentare evaluated.

Comparative mascara compositions C′1 and C′2 outside the invention wereprepared according to the same preparation protocol described above, andevaluated:

Ingredients with percentage Commercial Mw in Phases content of solidsname Suppliers g/mol C′1 C′2 Phase Steareth-2 Brij S2-SO- Croda — 10 10A (TH) Steareth-20 Brij S20-PA- Croda — 20 20 (SG) Iron Sunpuro Sun — 88 oxides Black Iron Oxide C33-7001 Phase Hydroxyethyl Cellosize QPAmerchol 730 000 — 3 B Cellulose 4400 H (Dow Chemical) Water qs qs 100100 Phase Preserving agents qs qs C

2—Composition Evaluation Method

The compositions prepared are evaluated regarding:

-   -   a) the black intensity, by visual observation and optionally        quantification by measuring the parameter L* using a        spectroradiometer such as a Minolta spectrocolorimeter,        especially at 0°, in the L*a*b* system: the smaller the value of        L*, the darker the colour.    -   b) the viscosity in Pa·s may be measured at 25° C. with a        rheometer, for example a Rheomat rheometer,    -   c) the makeup result, and in particular:        -   the comfort on application by assessing the application            properties in terms of the glidance and the playtime            (redeposition, retouching), especially regarding the ease of            allowing at least 20 brushstrokes on the eyelashes, better            still at least 25 brushstrokes, or even at least 30            brushstrokes, without the user sensing any dragging,        -   the wear property of the curl via a rigidity study on a            glass plate, consisting in spreading an amount of mascara            and assessing the rigid feel.    -   Additionally, the compositions are evaluated according to their        glossy aspect: d)        Gloss/Brightness Measurement:        The gloss of a deposit resulting from the application of a        composition is measured using a Micro TRI Glossmeter Byk gloss        60°. Wet product corresponding to each of the compositions A-B        in the table above is applied onto a matt contrast card via a        square applicator BYK 150 microns, and the brightness        measurement is performed on the wet film 30 seconds after        application with a Glossmeter 60°.        Measurement Principle Using this Glossmeter        The device illuminates the sample to be analyzed according to a        certain incidence and measures the intensity of the specular        reflection. The intensity of the reflected light depends on the        material and the angle of illumination. For non-ferrous        materials (paint, plastic), the reflected light intensity        increases with the angle of illumination. The rest of incident        light penetrates the material and depending on the color tone,        it is either absorbed in part is released. The measurement        results of the reflectometer are not based on the amount of        incident light, but on a black glass standard and polished        defined refractive index. The measurement is normalized to an        internal standard and reduced to a value of 100: For this        standard standard, the measured value is set to 100 gloss units        (calibration). The more the measured value is close to 100 the        more the sample is glossy. The unit is bright Unit (BU).        Test Protocol        a—Onto a Leneta brand contrast card of reference Form 1A        Penopac, is spread a wet layer of 30 μm thickness of composition        whose average gloss is to be evaluated, using an automatic        spreader. The layer covers the white background and the black        background of the card.        b—Measure gloss at 60°, 30 seconds after spreading on the        absorbent mat white background (3 measurements) with the help of        a brand Glossmeter Byk Gardner microTri-GLOSS reference.        It is then necessary to compare the values measured in UB        obtained for the different compositions tested. The higher the        measured value, the lower the deposit is matt.

3—Results of the Evaluation Measurements

C1 C2 C3 C4 C5 C′1 C′2 L* 8.4 8.6 7.2 6.5 7.1 8.1 23.2 Viscosity 8.217.9 9.3 18.2 12.9 1.2 19.2 (Pa · s) Rigidity YES YES YES YES YES NO NOGloss 60° 52 56 9.3 19 14 44 35 (BU)

Compositions C1 to C5 according to the invention combine the desiredproperties, i.e.:

-   -   an intense black shade with a value L* of less than 10,    -   while at the same time also having adequate rheology with a        viscosity value at 25° C. of greater than 5 Pa·s to provide a        satisfactory makeup result in terms of playtime and charging,    -   while at the same time affording good shaping and curling of the        eyelashes, with a deposit that is rigid after drying.

Compositions C1 to C3 allows to have additionally very glossycompositions contrarily to compositions C4 or C5 which are fainter,duller.

The comparative reference compositions C′1 and C′2 are manifestlyunsatisfactory in terms of shaping and curling of the eyelash fringe.Furthermore, composition C′1 has a viscosity at 25° C. of less than 5Pa·s. Furthermore, composition C′2 is manifestly less black than thecompositions according to the invention.

It is understood that, in the context of the present invention, theweight percentages given for a compound or a family of compounds arealways expressed as weight of solids of the compound in question.

Throughout the application, the wording “comprising one” or “includingone” means “comprising at least one” or “including at least one”, unlessotherwise specified.

The invention claimed is:
 1. A composition, comprising: an aqueousphase; a lamellar phase Lβ formed by an aqueous phase-structuringsurfactant system, said surfactant system comprising a content ofsurfactant(s) of greater than or equal to 15% by weight relative to thetotal weight of the composition, wherein the surfactant systemcomprises: at least one nonionic surfactant with an HLB value at 25° C.of less than 8 in a content of greater than or equal to 5% by weightwith respect to the total weight of the composition, and at least onenonionic surfactant with an HLB value at 25° C. of greater than or equalto 8, at least one from among the nonionic surfactant(s) with an HLBvalue at 25° C. of less than 8 and at least one from among the nonionicsurfactant(s) with an HLB value at 25° C. of greater than or equal to 8corresponding to formula (I) below:(ALK-[C(O)]_(a)—[O]_(b))_(c)—X  (I) wherein ALK is a C₇-C₂₃ alkyl group,a and b are integers between 0 and 100, c is an integer between 1 and100, and X is a (poly)oxyalkylene group optionally substituted and/orterminated with a hydroxyl group, wherein the nonionic surfactant withan HLB value at 25° C. of less than 8 and the nonionic surfactant withan HLB value at 25° C. of greater than or equal to 8 are present in atotal content of greater than or equal to 15% relative to the totalweight of the composition, and at least one (poly)vinylpyrrolidonehydrophilic polymer present in a content of greater than or equal to 1%by weight of solids relative to the total weight of the composition, thehydrophilic polymer(s) having a weight-average molecular mass Mw rangingfrom 1,500 to 500,000 g/mol.
 2. The composition according to claim 1,wherein group X is chosen from:HO-(ALK-O)_(z)—CH2-CH[(OALK)_(y)—OH]CH2-(O-ALK)_(x)-(*)  i) wherein ALK,which may be identical or different, is a C1-C6 alkylene group, x, y andz being an integer between 0 and 200, wherein x+y+z is other than 0;H-(ALK-O)_(x)—(*) and H—(O-ALK)_(x)-(*),  ii) wherein ALK, which may beidentical or different, is a C1-C6 ethylene group, and x is an integerother than
 0. 3. The composition according to claim 1, wherein at leastone from among the nonionic surfactant(s) with an HLB value at 25° C. ofless than 8 and the nonionic surfactant(s) with an HLB value at 25° C.of greater than or equal to 8, are chosen from: those corresponding toformula (I′) below:ALK-(O—CH₂—CH₂)_(n)—OH  (I′) wherein in formula (I′): ALK is a C₈-C₂₄alkyl group, n being an integer other than 0; those corresponding toformula (I″) below:(ALK-[C(O)]_(a)—[O]_(b))_(c)-(Gly)_(d)  (I″) wherein in formula (I″):ALK is a C₇-C₂₃ alkyl group, a and b are integers between 0 and 100, cis an integer between 1 and 100 Gly is a glycerol group, optionallysubstituted and/or terminated with a hydroxyl group, d is an integerbetween 1 and 20, for the nonionic surfactant(s) with an HLB value at25° C. of less than 8, and between 4 and 20 for the nonionicsurfactant(s) with an HLB value at 25° C. of greater than or equal to 8;and a mixture thereof.
 4. The composition according to claim 1, whereinthe nonionic surfactant(s) with an HLB value at 25° C. of less than 8are chosen from: (poly)oxyalkylenated monosaccharide esters and ethers;esters of fatty acids and of (poly)oxyalkylenated polyol; esters offatty acids and of (poly)glycerol; (poly)oxyalkylenated alcohols; andmixture(s) thereof.
 5. The composition according to claim 1, wherein thenonionic surfactant(s) with an HLB value at 25° C. of less than 8comprises a (poly)oxyalkylenated alcohol comprising an ether of a C₈-C₂₄fatty alcohol and of polyethylene glycol, said ether comprising from 1to 10 ethylene glycol units.
 6. The composition according to claim 1,wherein the nonionic surfactant(s) with an HLB value at 25° C. ofgreater than or equal to 8, are chosen from: (poly)oxyalkylenatedglycerol ethers, (poly)oxyalkylenated alcohols, esters of a fatty acidand of (poly)oxyalkylenated polyethylene glycol, esters of a fatty acidand of (poly)oxyalkylenated glycerol ethers, esters of a fatty acid andof (poly)oxyalkylenated sorbitol ethers, esters of fatty acids, and ofpolyglycerol, and mixture(s) thereof.
 7. The composition according toclaim 1, wherein the nonionic surfactant(s) with an HLB value at 25° C.of greater than or equal to 8 comprises a (poly)oxyalkylenated alcoholcomprising at least one ether of a C₈-C₂₄ fatty alcohol and ofpolyethylene glycol, said ether comprising at least 20 ethylene glycolunits.
 8. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the nonionicsurfactant(s) of formula (I) with an HLB value at 25° C. of greater thanor equal to 8 are present in a content of greater than or equal to 7% byweight relative to the total weight of the composition.
 9. Thecomposition according to claim 1, wherein the nonionic surfactant(s) offormula (I) with an HLB value at 25° C. of less than 8 are present in acontent of greater than or equal to 8% by weight relative to the totalweight of the composition.
 10. The composition according to claim 1,wherein the nonionic surfactant(s) with an HLB value at 25° C. of lessthan 8 and the nonionic surfactant(s) with an HLB value at 25° C. ofgreater than or equal to 8 are present in a total content ranging from15% to 45% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.11. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the nonionicsurfactant(s) with an HLB value at 25° C. of less than 8 of formula (I)and the nonionic surfactant(s) with an HLB value at 25° C. of greaterthan or equal to 8 of formula (I) are present in a respective totalcontent such that the weight ratio of the nonionic surfactant(s) with anHLB value at 25° C. of less than 8 of formula (I) to the nonionicsurfactant(s) with an HLB value at 25° C. of greater than or equal to 8of formula (I) ranges from 1/5 to
 5. 12. The composition according toclaim 1, wherein the (poly)vinylpyrrolidone hydrophilic polymer(s) arelinear.
 13. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the(poly)vinylpyrrolidone hydrophilic polymer(s) are chosen fromstatistical polymers and block copolymers, and a mixture thereof. 14.The composition according to claim 1, wherein the (poly)vinylpyrrolidonehydrophilic polymer(s) are chosen from: homopolymers of(poly)vinylpyrrolidone, (poly)vinylpyrrolidone/(poly)vinyl acetatecopolymers, (poly)vinylpyrrolidone/(meth)acrylic copolymers, saltsthereof, esters thereof, and a mixture thereof.
 15. The compositionaccording to claim 1, comprising from 0 to 25% by weight of wax(es)relative to the total weight of the composition.
 16. The compositionaccording to claim 1, comprising less than 5% by weight of wax(es), andat least 3% by weight of (poly)vinylpyrrolidone hydrophilic polymer(s)relative to the total weight of the composition.
 17. The compositionaccording to claim 1, comprising at least 10% by weight of wax(es). 18.The composition according to claim 1, wherein the aqueous phaserepresents from 30% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight ofthe composition.
 19. The composition according to claim 1, comprising atleast one dyestuff chosen from one or more pulverulent substances.
 20. Aprocess for coating keratin fibres, comprising applying a cosmeticcomposition according to claim 1 to keratin fibres.